Autumn-winter trends 2021/2022: Do we want to protect or embrace the outside?

  • By:karen-millen

27

09/2022

ANÁLISIS
De entre las diferentes narrativas que hay esta temporada, destacan dos que aunque parezcan opuestas, encuentran puntos en común en el confort y la seguridad

By María JoséPérez MéndezTendencias de otoño-invierno 2021/2022: ¿queremos protegernos o abrazar el exterior? Tendencias de otoño-invierno 2021/2022: ¿queremos protegernos o abrazar el exterior?

Many can be appointed, but there is a look among autumn-winter trends 2021/2022 that may have been seen in more than one and more than two occasions.And no, it is none contextualized in a viral environment, but in a much more prosaic place: it is a point of point composed of several pieces that are framed inside a floor of New York.It is enveloping, fluffy and, like the rest of the Altuzarra collection, collects that essence of comfort inside the house.Passed through the patina of elegance, to raise the day to day, yes, but homemade comfort after all.A proposal similar to that made by the Khaite firm for its 2022 cruise, where the idea of interior and stop before a convulsive world (narrative thread of my year of rest and relaxation, by Othesa Moshfegh) is even more explained.Joseph Altuzarra himself told Vogue.com that its maxim was "comfort, but fashion" to refer to all those skirts, rebels and sweaters that lead to another dimension the concept of basic pieces for a day to day that the same has to pass from doors to dooutside.And it is that uncertainty that, in part, has crossed the creative speeches of different luxury brands this season, giving rise to pieces that seem to want to protect ourselves from the outside while others invite you to hug him without tapujos.Only these two ideas, although it may seem otherwise, are far from being opposed.

One of the main concepts with which the design teams are now working is to extend the comfort of the homewear that has been taken for 2020 to the creations of 2021."We have seen great increases in" comfort "searches and a better product performance in which that word is mentioned," Francesca Muston, VP Fashion Content in WGSN was mentioned.“That can materialize in knitted fabrics, tissues and elastic waists or more loose cuts.It is possible that the appearance of the product does not change, but it will fundamentally improve how it feels on the body, which will allow greater freedom of movement, whether it is used at home or for a more active trip to the office, walking or going cycling".They are products that fit with a lasting change of our lifestyle, which has been irremediably affected due to the socio -health situation."Comfort has been a great change axis for many brands, which have been able to change what they were doing," said Emily Gordon-Smith, director of Consumer Products of the Stylus Trends Analysis Agency, to Vogue Spain."I don't think it's something to leave: once people realize that very comfortable clothes can improve health and well -being, there is no back".If personal and economic benefit coincide, everything is much better understood.

One of the first manifestations of this home comfort that seeks to protect us physically and mentally from an exterior now strange (and unfortunately, sometimes insecure) is in, as Muston commented, the knitting fabrics.They are one of the fundamental pillars of autumn-winter 2021/2022 and it is easySchouler, Carolina Herrera, Fendi, Blumarine ... so much so, that many of those styles are conceived in total key look, as if comfort were so urgent that you have even to facilitate the work of styling by eliminating it completely: you don't have to think aboutHow to combine those pieces, because they are designed to go together, like a whole.Absolute ease that hooks to such an extent that it makes the leap to other fabrics, being able to have tweed mats, such as Chanel's, pictures flannel, such as those of Celine by Hedi Slimane or mixing textures, as in Balmain.

Tendencias de otoño-invierno 2021/2022: ¿queremos protegernos o abrazar el exterior?

This lack of complexity is also present in a diametrically opposite look that, however, does not need many dressings to complete (and, therefore, it has not been building it for more than five minutes): that of party dresses.They have been another of the great constants in the collections of the season and talk about a hedonism that it is difficult to escape, especially because there have been few creative directors who have verbalized their desire to turn visually speaking, of returning to celebrate fashionand the desire to dress.Another form of escapism, as valid as bucolic or architectural ones, only that it recovers the 70's album and the accelerated and glamorous rhythm of the 20 and mixes them with a silver, gold and sequin jet.Garments that are made by and to be seen, to appear in the context of the social."Clothing and our clothing are a letter of presentation, a form of language that relates or classifies us within society," he told Vogue last year.is the psychologist Maite Prego.“When we go to a wedding, to go out at night or have coffee, we select the clothes in accordance with what we have been taught that it is suitable for that moment.Even those people who do not change their style from one event to another, have reached that form of action in response to the environment ”.Something that would also explain the large number of jacket costumes and garments inspired by tailoring that have appeared on the catwalks: the clamp pants and blazers remain two archetypes of the office look, an interior that makes us leave home and interact with others.

Those could be the two visual and conceptual extremes of autumn and winter trends.But like many other issues in life, among them there is a scale that gives rise to various mixtures;alchemical formulas that are sublimated at a certain midpoint: the enveloping parts designed for a real (and natural) exterior.

To talk about it, it is as inevitable as necessary to mention Miu Miu's collection.The historical parade for the firm was located in the Alps, at 3.000 meters high, the perfect environment for a whole series of pieces inspired by the mountain.The effect was as epatante as expected, and padded pieces and pens became.There were also balaclavas, gloves, scarves that seemed handed by hand;coats, thick rececas and all those pieces that someone can imagine in a cold winter, or even in the framework of a weekend in the snow.And that's where the key is: they are pieces designed to protect and generate well -being, but also to be away from home.Garments to embrace the body and give it security abroad;A round, in a way, to one of the most primal and basic purposes of clothing, the core with which what is now a social convention with multiple meanings began.

That same strategy is in Prada's stuffed coats, but also in the stroke of Thom Browne or in Coach's looks.And in many of them, as well as in some styles with lingerie dresses seen in Miu Miu, even that apparent festive opposition is exaggerated, both in tissues and patterns.Because you may not have to choose, but to know how to balance and how to get to be comfortable again and within the look that has been chosen that day.

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