Jasmien Wynants, sustainability expert: "more legislation is needed to change the sector"

  • By:karen-millen

21

05/2022

By Natasja Adrapiraal

Dec 28, 2021

Isn't it a pity that an industry that produces so many beautiful products simultaneously has so much impact on people and the planet?Anyone who studies the "ugly" side of the fashion industry cannot avoid being worried for this reason, says expert Jasmien Wynants.During the last seven years, she has been accumulating all possible knowledge about sustainable entrepreneurship and circular economy in Flanders DC, an organization that drives creatives in Flanders, Belgium, with an objective in mind: to improve the fashion industry.

I am increasingly clear that it was not enough with a change in industry and consumers."More legislation and policies are needed to eliminate some barriers and accelerate the transition to a circular economy," says Wynants.He recently finished a master's degree in environmental sciences at the University of Antwerp and has developed a master's thesis on European textile and politics.From FashionUnited we talked to her about this investigation and her recommendations.

How did your interest in sustainable fashion arise?

"In Flanders DC, I had the opportunity to inform and guide flamenco fashion companies to get a better way of working through the Close the Loop program. I spoke with many inspiring entrepreneurs and innovative companies and I saw that there is an evolution inThe field of sustainability: where only a few were dedicated to it, now almost everyone cares. They are more and more companies, from the little ones to the big ones, who look for ways to change their business model and work withRespect for people and the environment. But I have also realized that all companies face the same barriers. Among consumers, there is also a growing interest in sustainable fashion, but many have difficulty making the right decisions. That is why the system behind it does not work. "

Could that more in detail explain?

"The rapid fashion model, which once was a positive evolution, in favor of fashion democratization, has completely derailed in the last fifteen years. The life cycle of clothing is increasingly short.Fashion industry is largely based on trends that change rapidand then it is thrown or burned. In this process a huge amount of water is consumed. There is a lot of contamination and the complex production chains are known for exploitation in producing countries. "

What is needed to change this system?

"As an independent company, that is almost impossible. Policy and legislation are needed. To change a system, a government can provide guidance to accelerate this process. This can be done both imposing obligations and through positive incentives: for example, rewarding theCompanies with tax exemptions if they adopt sustainable measures. "

Are you personally more in favor of negative or positive incentives?

Jasmien Wynants, experta en sostenibilidad:

"From the point of view of the consumer, I lean towards the second. Compare it with the food industry: nobody likes to say that you cannot eat meat. People feel attacked and this leads to defensive behavior. It is a lotBetter to convince people with inspiring vegetarian recipes. If you wantResponsible. At the same time, it is goodfind the right mix in policy elaboration. "

The calendar of your master's thesis is favorable: the investigation fits totally within the framework of the "Green Deal" of the European Commission.

"It is true that in March 2020 the European Commission launched a new action plan for the circular economy. It will be one of the most important pillars of the new European green pact, the plan with which the EU wants to make the economy sustainable, with theObjective of achieving a climate neutral union by 2050. Some sectors will receive special attention for their environmental impact or circular opportunities, and one of them is ... the textile sector!

What includes this action plan?

"It contains measures aimed at the entire life cycle of the products. For the textile sector, concrete actions are developed and there will be a global European strategy with measures. For example, attention focuses on the creation of a framework for sustainable products,but also in the improvement of the business and normative environment of sustainable textiles. "

Although in his master's thesis part of a flamenco point of view, in the recommendations it is set more widely in the Belgian and European field.Because it is important?

"Delimitation is crucial: you have to start somewhere. But in the end, everything is connected. For example, we are now studying how a VAT reduction in certain products or services could contribute to encourage consumers and companies to buy fromSustainable. A measure that is anchored in national legislation, but for which the European VAT Directive will first have to review. So Flanders was the starting point of my investigation, but of course that exercise can be repeated for other countriesor parts of the country ".

What was the biggest challenge you found in your research?

"The complexity of politics and legislation. As I have already said, they are mixtures of all the small radars connected in a large image. Laws, regulations, guidelines ... It is very important that these things are determined and written with the contributionsof the sector. But not all companies have time to make contributions, much less to read the complexity of the matter. "

Through round tables, you gathered those two worlds in politics and industry.

"Yes, and I am very satisfied with the good participation of those interested in the sector in these round tables. It is one more proof that the industry itself wants to advance. One of the aspects that arose in the discussions with the political leaders is that it is essentialthat the industry itself asks for more legislation. "

What are the main recommendations of your master's thesis?

"First, it is necessary that there is clarity and delimitation. The debates of the round table showed that there is no clear definition of circular textiles. And that is crucial to make a good policy. It begins with the fact that we all measure with The same standards. Because everyone uses different criteria when it comes to sustainability and there is a proliferation of labels and certificates. Another recommendation is the importance of quality. There is much talk about the well -being of animals, the reduction of emissions of CO2 and the lower water consumption, but the useful life of the products is also essential. To do something with the growing mountain of waste full of non -recyclable textiles, we must encourage companies to manufacture products that last and are recyclable. And Avoid low quality productions. To achieve a minimum quality level, consensus is also important: when everyone speaks the same language, politics can be done and applied ARLA.

Finally, you argue that subsidies are important, as long as there is a market for them.

"It is very good that governments allocate money to innovation, but in practice there is usually very little overall vision about the destiny of that money. Four similar projects have recently been approved ... instead of centralizing them and stimulating cooperation.More coherence, that is why you have to start. Not only to open the money tap, but to rationalize and coordinate the subsidies better. And then focus on creating a market for the resulting innovations.

For your master's thesis, you received a "great distinction" qualification of the program.Does this encourage you to continue with academic research?

"There is a lot of potential to continue investigating. Although I have taken a different direction: now I work two days a week as a sustainability coordinator in Xandres. A Belgian fashion house with a long history in which quality has always been fundamental. The company was looking for someone who could translate its sustainability objectives -a long -term strategy -in concrete short -term actions. I also work three days in Flanders Dc. A good combination, because the problems we encountered in Xandres -and perhaps also also In other fashion companies- they can be addressed from Flanders Dc. And in Flanders DC I meet organizations that can be of interest to Xandres. I think cooperation is the only way to achieve real progress. A philosophy in which so much Flanders DC As Xandres believe and defend. Due to my complete work week, I currently have no time for more academic research, but I don't rule out anything for the future. "

This article was originally published in Fashionunited.be, and translated and edited from the Dutch to Spanish by Veerle Versteeg.

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Jasmien Wynants, sustainability expert: "more legislation is needed to change the sector"
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