TEXTO Y FOTOS: FRANCISCO ORTIZ PARDO
At 5:35 p.m. on Saturday, October 23, José Martí de Bronze appears nining, as a “mute witness” of the ambulance, on the outskirts of the Hidalgo Metro station, close to the Central Alameda.Just on the other side of the historic tree, the crowd returns to convert the crossing of Juárez Avenue with the central axis in the largest pedestrian crossing in Latin America.
If it were not for the use of the covers - they are disdained by the federal health authorities over 19 fair months and about 600 thousand real dead, period in which it ended up being considered an accessory of selfish people - it would be said that, indeed, herenothing has happened.Both in the subway cars and in the streets, eight out of 10 people wear masks, not always as it should, the nose from outside and in some cases the fabric as a chin coverage.
On May 5, the reggaeton rumbles.Not even the show that occurs an hour later he loves the spirits of the return to the streets, the green light that releases blame, euphoria that forms a long row of walkers on the sidewalk of what was San Juan de Letán in search of a precious bagof Churros de El Moro, or that is manifested in the echoes that escape the alleys of the Chinese neighborhood for the bars of traditional bars and canteens.There, in Dolores, the chilangos become chocones cars under the decorative umbrella and the lighting of foquitos, which in addition to dodging each other, must overcome the street stalls and the improvised restaurant terraces that were supposed to be temporary and have already stayed devouringThe public space.
A faint light illuminates from afar the faces of a semi -unconscious, ghostic woman in the gloom, found on the edge of a commercial premises a few meters from the corner of Bolívar and Uruguay to be safe from the weather in whichThey soak their old shoes with their oils and their misery, invisible to the eyes of those who pass by.How much more can life be worth after pandemic?
In front of the Palace of Fine Arts, three clowns with poorly traced makeup, leperos without any censorship before dozens of children who concentrate around with their families, cause more laughs for the need of the public to laugh than for their ingenuity of comedians.On the waning moon formed by the spectators, next to the Beethoven monument, there is no social distance and the elbows are narrowed again.A strange scene appears between women personifying catrinas and police mounted on their horses with charro uniforms: two robust rabbits leave a brief meadow to be caressed by children.
In the ideal pastry shop, the night of the deceased has passed and in the nephew with gold gates and its marble dispatch, the sugar skulls of all sizes and colors in the showcases, in contrast to the desert tables whereThere are only crumbs after the passage of the clients, who took all possible dead bread.
The return of the pampering and the danzón
The announcement - without enough alert nuances - by the capital government with respect to the change of yellow to green epidemiological traffic light from Monday, October 18, precipitates that from the previous day the celebration in Coyoacán is tumultuous. Its historic center, site of legends, characters and traditions, is effectively overwhelmed by thousands of walkers. The same those who accommodate, among the planters with their rats, or in the cobblestone, to see the show of pampering and clowns in front of the kiosk, that the diners of the Xicoténcatl market, swollen at times in the halls where men and women suddenly appear Without covering, among the musical waves of the blue angels, and produce shock at the most cautious. In front of the old gallerion where the frida Kahlo is sold omnipresent in bags, dolls and pottery, an industrial brand uses the public space with the pretext of the day of the dead, in a module with multicolored calacas where it offers to try its “pot of pot”.
In the main premises of El Jarocho, the famous Cayoacán coffee, two long rows are formed this Sunday afternoon that add up to 80 clients, which obviously do not seek social distance;The same goes for access to the handicraft market, on Felipe Carrillo Puerto Street, which separates the two public squares where hundreds of people traveled, especially families and couples.On the outskirts of traditional restaurants such as the Morral, groups of people remain waiting for them to be assigned a table, while the narrow sidewalk vendors offer, face to face, endless things to tourists.
Two weeks later, in another colonial and southern historic center, that of Tlalpan, the Danzoneros have become accompanied by the catrina and its clones. Tremendous coincidence after the pain suffered by her dead companions. Before the misfortune, from all over the Mayor's Office, even beyond its limits, 120 couples reached the square in front of the municipal building, whose width extends today a mega -face colorful and aromatizing that pays tribute to the native peoples of Tlalpan. Álvaro and Yolanda moved from the rumbos of sources sprouting, in the La Fama neighborhood, which is called because a long time ago there was a textile factory on that home. Since the "quarantine" began, their lives was altered by the Additional penalty of not being able to dance more in the central square. It was then that they took refuge in the nearby Cuauhtémoc Park in the Toriello Guerra neighborhood, with two other couples, well covered with masks and masks. "Some have died from the Coronavirus, about ten of those who danced there," Álvaro lamented then.
Fruit and vegetable vendors alternate space. The counters that are suspended in the air invading a palm of the sidewalk; While others occupy a recesses in the corners, camouflaged by the huacales, almost to be discovered in a game of chance. And yet those who are shy have much more clientele than the marginalized who have been three blocks contemplating themselves from three corners with their retacted and decorated ruses of Jitomate red, white onion, orange carrot and lemon green. In spite ... Maybe that's why the fruit dispatcher inside the market is so kind, that it cannot match the offers but patience explains the qualities of that strange fruit called Persimo.
There in the market a tenant - only one - rushes to announce the Christmas season with Santa Clós and Christmas Eve Figuritas, colored lights and plastic crowns.On the gallerón facade is still the blanket with which the pilgrimage of the Day of the Dead was published.Two hundred steps from there, the December stores appear a little more, in the stretch of sweets, desolate right now;Seven -peak piñatas, capital sins ...
Along the way is a lonely old woman whose octogenarian age is revealed in the hundreds of stripes drawn on their face.She is sitting in a paint of paint in the direction of the street and not of the sidewalk where the potential buyers of the hostels that she offers on a blanket placed on the ground are traveling;She twists her neck as her neck every minute, to look at those who pass, possible fortune tellers of the desires and the deficiencies deposited in her silence.
Enlightened in Xochimilco
The collective denial of the latent risks of the Coronavirus has its own expression in the travelers of the Xochimilco trajineras, among which there are Germans and Russians, when in their countries the fourth wave of Covid-19 is already an alarming reality that has forcedTake extreme measures again.
It is the dusk on Saturday, November 20 and in the canoe in whose arch hung from the roofing looks in roses and purple the name "Viva México", and that lies in the Las Flores jetty, in the natives originallyGroup of young people sitting on the tables dribble the few minutes that remain in light sipping the last drinks of their beers.
Without realizing that in the parking lot of the jetty there is no more car, the concurrence seems to be low.What happens is that when one enters navigation, it begins little by little to discover the show, which intensifies when crossing the main channel of this tourist area by the New Nativitas jetty.Then the floating harvest appears, which in addition to offering beers and foods, consists of simple canoes where the blankets are loaded for the cold, the cotton of sugar for the craving and the rag dolls for the girls.
But what attracts the most attention is the amount of kids mounted in the trajineras, among which there are numerous minors without cover, which have obviously not been vaccinated.Some dance with reggaeton or electronic music, which intermingles with mariachi groups and the Sinaloense band perched on vehicles in which more conservative public travel.
The economic reactivation in this place is not bad, where 40% of the capacity is supposedly worked but in a 60 -minute route, when the night begins, you can see up to 50 trajineras sailing.And that is not a cheap entertainment: despite an alleged “discount” of 30% of its original price, the time of walk is paid minimally in 350 pesos for two people.
In some cases the cooling ones go in two tied trajineras, which collide with others, and jump from one to another;The algarabía seems to echo in the water, where the light of the candles, which are also sold, or the one that emits the cell phones or the floating discos with music at full volume, illuminates the waves that are formed by the movement of the armathes.Here only those who row or those who sell a thousand are those who use the covers.
Armando says, the driver of "La Brujita", who already attend Russian and German tourists, in addition to the gringos, although for him it is only his second trip for six hours, when "El Patron" has put to work 14Of their 20 canoes and there are 14 employees, which must be linen.A lacerating exploitation, where workers basically live on tips.
This is a free port where you can climb to the trajineras with bottles of rum, tequila, mezcal or gin.There is no protocol of civil protection, nor anyone who warns of the sanitary measures to follow.The party makes us forget that in this city more than 50 thousand people have died due to a virus that is intended to be drowning in these millenary channels.