Sybilla: The story of a free and wild brand brand No. 15

  • By:karen-millen

04

02/2023

He managed to renew the female silhouette and created a unique style in which Japanese conceptual minimalism intermingled with "the femme fatale" of French fashion.

Vestido que confeccionó Sybilla para Blanca Lí y que luciría la bailarina en la fiesta de Louis Vuitton donde se conmemoraba el centenario del nacimiento del estampado Monogram.

Hace unos meses hablamos de la conferencia en la que tuvimos el placer de conocer un poco más a una mujer y diseñadora excepcional, Sybilla Sorondo.Her homonym and delicate and avant -garde vision of what fashion was led to becoming one of the most famous names in the industry during the 80s and 90s. A pesar, de haber tenido una carrera llena de altibajos, Sybilla consiguió crear una tercera vía en la historia de la moda.Its perception, granted greater weight to the preparation of garments, creating alternatives in the textile industry, which broke with all the established molds.Thus he created a unique style, in which Japanese conceptual minimalism intermingled with "the femme fatale" of French fashion.

Sybilla's story is one of these that when you listen to her - especially told by her - you are surprised and turning on the thousand and some adventures that she had to live since she was very young.He was born in New York in 1963, later moved to Madrid when he was still very small.At that moment he began to make garments inspired by the clothes he saw in other stores and then she reinvented them.Although he never studied fashion, with 17 years he moved to Paris to work at Yves Saint Laurent Atelier.

Three years later - when he was 20 - he presented his first parade in Madrid.From a young age he always kept away from the spotlights, and in his debut as a designer he was not going to be different.He organized a semi -evidenced parade, in which he left the entire captivated audience, presenting 40 models that enjoyed an exquisite originality.In this presentation he already made clear his vision of what fashion meant for her: to give femininity the body of women with unusual garments.Layers that wrapped in the woman's body, pieces that separated, colors of nature.And, in addition, the garments were made with materials that Sybilla itself had found in vintage stores or markets.

Coleccion 1988/89 fotografiado por Javier Vallhonrat

Despite this, the birth of the Sybilla brand came a little later.Precisely when businessman Rafa Boix offered to design a couple of shoes collections that captivated the Milanese and New York public.Producer Alberto Guardione echoed this event and decided to start industrial production and national distribution of Sybilla garments.

Sybilla: la historia de una marca VEIN nº 15 Libre y Salvaje

Not only Sybilla had a great sense of taste when creating the garments, but also when celebrating the parades.Every time he was polishing a more personal and charismatic style that made her unique.Overviews, embroidery, beads, the chromatic range of their garments, eccentric accessories and exciting music managed to position their parades as authentic shows.The Sybilla brand was soft, feminine and ultra staff, but also maintained an avant -garde air.

Three years after his debut as a designer, he opened his boutique in Madrid.In addition, during this time he met photographers who would perfectly reflect Sybilla's vision: Javier Vallhonrat and Juan Gatti.

Sybilla's fame took almost no warning and won numerous clients all over the world.For this reason, the Zuccoli family, owner of the factory that produced Pret-á-porter to Jean Paul Gaultier, offers the designer a new license.This would make his career reach another level: numerous parades in Milan and the best Italian fabrics.

With just 25 years, Sybilla is on the mouth of everyone.His collections transfer Europe reaching the Japanese market, their greatest support in later years.In Tokyo he presents the ‘Winter Airport’ collection, one of the most iconic firm.The collection is a parody of the life of the designer herself.He lived a stressful era, in which he was traveling continuously, he always had a job between hands.Photo sessions here, photo sessions over there, a few interviews, but little rest.

Javier Vallhonrat fotografía la colección ‘Winter Airport’

Despite this overwhelming life, the designer turned each parade into a theatrical scene where to celebrate fashion.They are not the typical parades that we see where the models are half pissed off and in a hurry on the catwalk.Sybilla parades - if they could give them their own name - were authentic shows.The models and the actresses were on the catwalk, acted and interacted with the public.

During the following years, the Sybilla brand is positioned as a luxury and little accessible.However, in the Japanese market it was, on the contrary.Therefore, he opened a store in the capital of Japan allowing him a more relaxed, less hostile and superficial production.When the designer remains at the time of her first child, she makes the decision to end all the contracts she had in Italy and focus on the Japanese market.Began to design a line of accessories and decoration called: Jocomomola.

Later the designer would receive orders quite different from what she was doing.Her friend and choreographer Blanca Li, proposes to make the costume of the show that was riding at that time.The "sound" dresses that made participated during the choreography in the creation of music.Shortly after this, Sybilla begins his wedding dresses line.And, in 1996, the prestigious firm Louis Vuitton - at that time was a little bad money - ask Sybilla and other designers for a renewal work of his brand.In this project, they had to use the classic house logo.Sybilla takes a turn of eighty degrees to this and leads it to its land, creating the iconic ‘backpack-paragüas’.

La ‘mochila-paragüas’ que diseño Sybilla para el centenario de Louis Vuitton

That same year, the designer creates for Blanca one of the most remembered dresses of her career.A long black dress that represents Spanish stereotypes through cut-outs in the chest part: bull, religion, son and sex.A year later, in 1997, the brand Crea Sybilla Night.A line completely dedicated to night costumes.

The last parade he celebrated and with which he decided to retire temporarily from fashion, was an unforgettable moment, both for her and for the public.His store became a town fair.With typical fair games where you could get products from the firm, the models on top of a stage showing the collection and above the trapeze spectators with the Sybilla Night dresses.Subsequently, Sybilla returned to the preparation, however, she saw that fashion had become something cold and superficial.Therefore, the designer closed her boutique forever in 2018.

Sybilla dedicated hours and hours to create impossible patterns with which women felt comfortable.I believed in a thorough, slow job, where the tailoring took the main role and in a trade that really made it with a passion for fashion, as Sybilla had.

Fotografiado por Ouka Leele en 1985
Publicidad de Sybilla 2002
Rossy de Palma de Sybilla Night
Sybilla Night 2001
Sybilla colección otoño/invierno 2015-16

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Sybilla: The story of a free and wild brand brand No. 15
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