Since the late 1990s, Victoria's Secret has been one of the most well-known and buzzed-about brands every time it did something, no matter what.
Victoria's Secret has been instrumental in defining what is sexy in today's world through its edgy lingerie and supermodel runway shows.
But increasingly, the tide seems to be turning. Sales are down, customers are complaining that quality has dropped, and analysts are growing more skeptical about their future if they refuse to adapt in an era of #MeToo.
This Thursday its parent company, L Brands, announced that it will sell a 55% stake in the company to an investment firm. The president and CEO of L Brands has also announced that he is retiring after almost 6 decades at the helm.
Below you will find more information about how the company has achieved success and how it has stumbled recently:
Wikimedia Commons
Inspired by an awkward trip to a department store to buy underwear for his wife, Raymond set out to create a place where men would feel comfortable shopping for lingerie. He wanted to create a women's underwear store aimed at the male sector.
El Secreto de Victoria
His vision was summed up by Slate's Naomi Barr in 2013: "Raymond envisioned a Victorian boudoir, replete with dark wood, Oriental rugs, and silk draperies. He chose the name 'Victoria' to evoke the decency and respectability associated with the Victorian era; Refined outwardly, Victoria's 'secrets' were hidden underneath."
He then opened several Victoria's Secret stores and released his famous catalogue.
Getty/Astrid Stawiarz/Stringer
Source: Slate
Wexner, who founded L Brands (formerly Limited Brands), was already making a name for himself in the retail world as he built an impressive empire.
In June 1982, The Limited — which had previously acquired Express and Lane Bryant — was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. A month later, under Wexner's leadership, the company acquired all six Victoria's Secret stores and catalog for $1 million.
Nicholas Hunt/Getty
He was closely following the European lingerie market at the time and wanted to bring this aesthetic to the United States. So he set out to create a more affordable version of the European luxury brand "La Perla" — lingerie that looked luxurious and expensive but was still affordable.
AP Photo/Adam Nadel
Source: The Telegraph
AP Photo/Terry Gilliam
The show, directed by Ed Razek (now director of marketing for L Brands), became an icon of the brand's image.
Razek and his team were responsible for choosing the models that were going to guide the show. Because of this, he became one of the most important people in the modeling world, helping to launch the careers of Gisele Bündchen, Tyra Banks, and Heidi Klum.
AP Photo/Mark Lennihan
Source: Time
Body by Victoria was a "blockbuster" and more than doubled the sales volume of any bra Victoria's Secret had previously released, Michael Silverstein wrote in his book, "Trading Up."
El Secreto de Victoria
From then on, the term "Angel" became synonymous with the brand.
YouTube/Derek Dahlsad
Razek hired the best photographers and television directors in the world to do commercials for the brand.
AP Photo/Stephen Chernin
It is a tradition for angels to wear a "Fantasy Bra" on all catwalks since 1996. These change every year.
Source: Insider
AP Photo/Richard Drew
According to articles at the time, Turney wanted to remove "hooker looks" from the catalog and made the aesthetic more like Vogue than Playboy.
Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images
Source: Business Insider
L Brands
Wexner made a series of quick changes: ditching the catalogue, swimwear and apparel to focus solely on lingerie, the core of his business.
He also split the brand into three — Victoria's Secret Lingerie, Victoria's Secret Beauty and Pink — and recruited a CEO for each division.
Courtesy of Spanx
AP Photo/Mary Altaffer
Victoria's Secret was slow to adapt to a shift from padded and padded bras to bralettes and sports bras, missing out on an important fashion trend.
Facebook/Aerie
Victoria's Secret was accused of not adapting to the times.
Business Insider/Mary Hanbury
Source: Business Insider
Business Insider/Mary Hanbury
"We think Pink is on the brink of collapse," Jefferies analyst Randal Konik wrote in a note to investors in March 2018, commenting on the level of in-store promotions.
Some parents complained that Pink was being shunned by Victoria's Secret's sexualized ads.
AP Pictures
Getty Images/Dipasupil Day
Razek has formally apologized online, but some of her critics said she should have resigned.
Former executives at the company told Business Insider that it wasn't about Razek giving up her position, as she is "untouchable" in Wexner's eyes and has full control over the brand image.
AP Images/Evan Agostini
Source: Business Insider
Agostini/Invision/AP
Mehas has a tough job, analysts say. Victoria's Secret same-store sales were down 3% in 2018, and it's slowly losing market share to startups.
Plus, he has angry shareholders to deal with. In March, activist shareholder Barington Capital sent a letter to Wexner, making recommendations for improving Victoria's Secret's growth to "unlock substantial value."
In the letter, Barington CEO James A. Mitarotonda called the company's brand image "outdated."
"Victoria's Secret's brand image is starting to look dated and even a bit tone deaf as it is not aligned with evolving women's attitudes towards beauty, diversity and inclusion," he wrote.
AP Photo/Jay LaPrete
Source: Business Insider
And it seems that Victoria's Secret has taken this criticism very seriously. Although he acknowledged the letter in a statement, he has also actively sought to replace three board members to be more diverse, according to The Wall Street Journal.
Charles Sykes/Invision/AP
Although she is not a plus-size model, Instagram users celebrated a publication starring Palvin for being more inclusive of beauty canons, since she was considered curvier than some of the other models of the brand.
"This model looks healthy and I love it," one Instagram user wrote.
"Finally! A real human body," said another.
Transgender Brazilian model Valentina Sampaio shared a photo of herself on Instagram in August tagging the Victoria's Secret Pink brand along with the hashtags "campaign," "vspink," and "diversity." A day later, she shared a video of herself captioned "Never stop dreaming."
Her agent later confirmed that she had signed a contract with Victoria's Secret.
Source: Business Insider
AP Photo/Francois Mori
During a call with analysts after reporting third-quarter results, L Brands CFO Stuart Burgdoerfer responded to a question about whether the Victoria's Secret Angels Show would be held again.
"We're going to communicate with customers, but nothing close in magnitude to the lingerie show," he explained.
Wexner had previously told employees in May that Victoria's Secret was "rethinking" the show. And Victoria's Secret model Shanina Shaik, who has walked in several of its shows, told the Australian edition of the Daily Telegraph in July 2019 that the annual show would be canceled this year.
Epstein managed Wexner's money for several years, and former company executives told the Wall Street Journal that he tried to meddle in the Victoria's Secret business, offering information about which women should be models.
Some of Epstein's victims have also testified that he used his connection to Victoria's Secret to coerce them into performing sexual acts.
The L Brands board of directors announced that it had hired an outside law firm to review his relationship with Epstein. In September, Wexner discussed her ties to Epstein at the L Brands investor meeting.
"At some point in your life we all get betrayed by friends," Wexner said. "Being taken advantage of by someone so sick, so cunning, so depraved, is something I'm ashamed of even being around. But that's in the past."
Wexner will remain on the board of directors as chairman emeritus.
Source: Business Insider
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