The crisis of the new coronavirus, health, economic and global, has been the chip that is shaking the other pieces of the board in the fashion industry. With many companies stockpiling due to temporary business closures (fearing they will no longer be able to sell) and with a consumer who has started to get used to less immediate delivery times for their online purchases, the pre-sale business model it could be the future for many small and medium clothing brands. If competing with the fast fashion model with which Zara changed the world was already unattainable before the pandemic (remember that it is capable of devising a garment and bringing it to the store within two weeks), the current situation requires changes to the rest.
This salad is missing another ingredient, a debate that fashion has been trying to tackle for several seasons: sustainability. It is important to note that this industry creates 92 million tons of waste per year, 4% of the world's total.
All of this is paving the way for a new model that is slower, more sustainable and more viable as a business, that of advance purchase. Digital brands born in the heat of the millennial generation and social networks, but also platforms dedicated to luxury such as Moda Operandi, are successfully testing the different pre-sale hooks. On the one hand, for them, the stock (and its manufacturing and maintenance costs) is reduced, the production volume is calculated much more precisely, the parts that will be successful are hit upon and their cash-flow is kept healthy, as in the case of the Californian Dôen, which with each pre-sale finances the materials and labor necessary to make the garment.
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The French Maison Cléo, a favorite of digital influencers like Leandra Medine or Emily Ratajkowski, launches a small selection of designs every Wednesday in limited edition. Once you've placed your order, it's handcrafted in the brand's Lille studio and shipped to the customer within two weeks. In addition, it allows some customization in the size and even some variations of the fabric on demand. London-based British Birdsong, known for its sustainable clothing and collaborations with artists, has announced via Instagram that it is completely changing its system to a pre-booking system, and they tell Refinery29 that the idea of being able to name Who makes your garment adds value for the customer.
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